For those of you who examine the ingredient listing on your cosmetic products, you may have seen the addition of something called Kojic Acid in one or more of them recently. Some of you may still be wondering what it actually is, and how helpful or harmful it can be in your skincare routine. If so, in this article you will get a quick breakdown of this awesome little acid that is a powerhouse ingredient behind some of the best skin lightening cosmetics on the market.
The Origin Story:
Kojic Acid, also known as 5-Hydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)-4H-pyran-4-one, was discovered in Japan in 1907; was approved as a skin whitener in the mid 1950’s by the FDA; and has surged to popularity over the past few decades. KA is a completely natural compound derived from Aspergillus Oryzae and other types of fungi. It can be found as a byproduct in the fermentation stage of making Japanese sake, soy sauce, and rice wine. Koji is the Japanese word meaning fungus so you can see why Kojic Acid was easier to roll off the tongue, right? For the benefit of you readers, Kojic Acid will now be shortened to the abbreviation of KA.
How to use Kojic Acid (KA):
KA appears in a multitude of skin care products and cosmetics, most commonly lotions, creams, serums and soaps. It can be found in everything from wash off products to leave on products to reduce the signs of aging and to reduce scarring and hyperpigmentation. Typically KA products are formulated for the face and hands but KA can be used on several parts of the body where scarring or hyperpigmentation can occur, including bikini areas or armpits where razor burn, ingrown hairs and other hair removal related irritations can be an issue. KA also works as a chemical exfoliant, gently removing dead skin cells and eliminating oils and dirt from the skins surface and pores. There are a few forms of KA with various absorption rates and strengths, so picking the right product for your needs and wants can be a bit of a trial and error. KA doesn’t work immediately on reduction of scars or dark spots, it will take about 3 months of continuous and steady use to see a noticeable difference, but the glow from its exfoliation will be noticeable much sooner as pores will become tighter and dull skin sloughs off, revealing the underlying more rejuvenated skin tone.
How Kojic Acid (KA) works:
KA inhibits the formation of tyrosine which is an amino acid naturally found in our bodies. Tyrosine helps produce melanin which is the pigment responsible for our eye, hair and skin color. Once the melanin production is reduced in our skin, this results in a skin lightening effect over time. To clarify, this is not a bleach and is much less damaging to our skin than a bleach. That being said, with regular use of KA products, skin will definitely become lighter. The flip side is that once the use of KA is halted, the skin will return to its natural complexion.
How often to use Kojic Acid (KA):
As stated KA is mild in comparison to skin bleaches but it is still a relatively powerful skin whitener and you should be mindful of how your skin reacts to it. Although KA is a favorite among dermatologist, estheticians and those in the skincare industry, it is advised that if your skin is very sensitive, you should not use any products containing KA more than once or twice weekly. It is also clearly advised not to use KA on open wounds or damaged skin, ever. KA is safe to use every day in products with a concentration of no more than 1% for leave on products for those with normal to oily skin. In wash off products that percentage can go as high as 3%. If your product states it has a higher percentage than 1% and is a leave on product, limit use to no more than 3 times a week and carefully watch your skin’s reaction.
What to do if you have a reaction:
Most skin types react well to KA but overuse or using a product that is too strong for you can result in contact dermatitis. Contact dermatitis can cause rashes, itching, and dry patches to form on your skin and in some severe cases it can cause painful blisters or water bubbles to appear. What also needs to be considered is an allergic reaction. As KA is derived from fungus, if you have an allergy to any fungus you may be susceptible to an allergic reaction which can cause similar symptoms to that of contact dermatitis. If you experience any of these, discontinue use of the product immediately and seek professional assistance.
What to use in combination with Kojic Acid (KA):
KA is often found on its own and is very effective being used solo. However for optimal results, it can be found paired with a number of skin loving ingredients including glycolic acid, lactic acid, vitamin C & most recently arbutin. Traces of Rose has paired KA with turmeric in their Luminous product line and with Papaya Fruit Extract in their Black Papaya Soap. Pairing KA with turmeric, couples KA’s brightening ability to turmeric’s ability to reduce dark circles; revitalize skin; lighten hyperpigmentation; and provide protection against environmental damage. Pairing KA with the papain from papayas, couples KA’s chemical exfoliation with the papaya’s ability to slough off dead skin cells; clear out oil and dirt which clogs pores; tone and tighten skin; and decrease inflammation from skin irritations.
Now You’re in the know:
Continuous use of products containing KA can result in a renewed sensitivity to the damaging effects of the sun’s rays, so whichever combination you choose to use, in whatever product you decide to try, remember this one very important tip; never leave your home without applying sunscreen after using a product with KA. Kojic Acid is a powerful tool in your skincare tool box but again only if you use it correctly. Being aware and responsible in your skin care means that your skin will never reveal your age and you won’t have to deal with the uncomfortable issues that come along with contact dermatitis or unnecessary skin irritations because you’re not using the products as they were intended. So the next time you read the ingredients list on your favorite product and you see Kojic Acid listed among the ingredients, you now have the information to make an informed decision as to if you should continue to buy it and how you can use it.
With Love
Tracee Rose
Comentários